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The Meaning Of Tea

Teaspoons & Petals - Tue, 12/29/2009 - 20:03

Back in the fall, I hopped on a Bolt Bus headed towards NYC to attend a private screening of The Meaning Of Tea, not yet knowing that this film would greatly deepen and grow my connection to tea. The Meaning Of Tea is “a 74-minute documentary film that travels through India, Japan, Taiwan, Morocco, England, France, Ireland, and even Tea, South Dakota to ask a variety of people about their relationship to tea as a beverage, a means of relaxation, and a way of life.”

To state it rather simply, this film intensified my love affair with tea as it explored the emotional, historical, cultural and experiential role of tea throughout the world.

Scott Hoyt, the director of this cinematic journey, notes that “In this film, I seek to capture the compelling essence of tea as philosophy, art form, and as an old tea master once said, a means to cleanse the senses. While other documentary films on tea have focused on its history or sociology, I will focus on what Suzuki calls “the spirit of tea,” the rediscovery of simplicity, harmony, purity, and reverence for life.”

I feel truly fortunate to have experienced such a defining film, as it offered me the opportunity to take a look at how those closely connected to tea viewed its deeper meaning and significance. From tea sellers and pickers, to tasters, teapot traders and plantation owners, each offered an honest insight into the complexities of this plant and beverage from a deeply emotionally perspective. Each carefully crafted and seamlessly integrated scene touched upon the ritual, history, picking, selling, buying and tasting aspects of tea.

As the film explored tea’s role in our modern world and its meaning in our fast paced culture, I was truly inspired to ask the questions, what does tea mean to me? Although its role in my life has changed throughout the years, tea began simply as a welcomed escape from coffee. It would soon evolve into a beverage that excited my senses, then a restorative treat, before becoming a ritual, and now I am proud to say that tea is truly a part of who I am. Tea defines me and has inspired my values.

Although I have no intention of spoiling your viewing experience by exposing details, I need to share a truly moving quote from the film. The carefully considered and soulfully expressed words of lu-feng lu from Wu-ling tea farm in Taiwan captivated my spirit and soul.

“When I drink a good tea, I use my heart to smell the aroma. When I inhale, it goes right into my soul. So when I come across a good tea, I remember it for many years. The memory of that tea stays with me for a longtime. For a tea to be very good, you need the right combination of heaven, earth and man. Sometimes it takes years to comes across one. I feel fortunate, as I’ve experienced this a few times in my life. I’ve come across a good tea only four times. It’s so rare. Some people never come across a good tea in their lifetime. For this reason, I feel lucky. My life is fulfilled.”

Take one more slow sip from your cup and gently read the quote once again.

I highly recommend that you add this film to your collection, as it will help you better understand and define what tea truly means to you. Steep your favorite tea, watch the trailer and take the first step on the path towards understanding how tea has lifted your spirit.

pots of tea

Teaspoons & Petals - Thu, 11/05/2009 - 20:51

One of the many benefits of sharing my passion for tea with friends, is that I often receive emails filled with photos of teaware, updates about new tea companies and invitations to join them for a cup of tea. So, I was thrilled when my friend, Jolene, emailed me this fabulous photo (originally from the Just Be Splendid blog).

…time to resteep an oolong and dream of the day that I’ll have a tea room with built-in bookshelves lined with my teacups…

Tea Talk: Kate Gover of Lahloo Tea

Teaspoons & Petals - Mon, 11/02/2009 - 01:56

Tea allows me to travel via slow sips of exotic blends that conjure images of foreign lands and cultures. Beyond the steep, I often find that I can take a journey through the words of tea enthusiasts, such as Kate Gover of Lahloo Tea located in Bristol, UK.  After exchanging emails with Kate a few months ago, she agreed to answer some questions about her love of tea and the story behind Lahloo. I’m thrilled to share her words and beautiful images with you.

(p.s. I’ll be posting reviews of teas from Lahloo very soon!)

What are your top 5 favorite pieces of teaware?
Ooh a tough question, they are all so gorgeous! If I really have to choose then I would say my absolute favourite is the beautiful and skilful flower tea bowl. I love my teabowl especially with lovely frothy  Matsukaze Matcha in it for breakfast! After that I’d always choose my Little Jade Teapot with a bamboo especially for a lovely Darjeeling Second Flush. Finally, the chatjans. My favourites are – Terracotta Travel Set, Six Cranes and Red Dot Peony. All fantastically simple to use to make loose leaf tea. Tactile, comforting and stunning to look a; they add a little ceremony to your tea drinking.

What are your top 5 favorite teas at the moment?
I am loving these teas at the moment: Wazuka Sencha, Mr Aoki and the delicious and very unusual Sobacha (roasted buckwheat ‘tea’). I am also drinking an awful lot of Mr Chun’s Grasshopper oolong – a buttery, floral high mountain oolong from Ren-Ai. Although not strictly a tea I have just launched fruity, sweet White Mulberry which is highly addictive. Here’s a little more about each one:

·         WAZUKA SENCHA Beautiful deep jade-green leaf full of fresh, grassy aroma and bitter-sweet taste. Grown in full sunlight in row upon row of luscious tea trees in the Wazuka Hills, Uji, it has beautifully balanced flavours. This is thanks to the special care and attention, from harvest to delivery, of Hidekazu and the steaming rather than pan frying of the tea leaf.
·         MR AOKI Robust and satisfying, naturally sweet and uplifting. Mr Aoki and his son, Tak, grow their ‘labour of love’ on a tiny tea farm in the beautiful Southern Japanese island of Kyushu, the coastal region of Oita. A genuine farmer’s tea, Mr Aoki’s steamed green tea or sencha is grown using their own natural fertilizers among mikan (small Satsumas) trees.
·         SOBACHA Rich golden brown roasted nibs with a sweet, nutty taste. Unusual but very popular ‘tea’ from the Japanese Alps. It is naturally caffeine-free and high in B vitamins and ‘rutin’, a natural anti-oxidant that aids circulation and lowers blood pressure.
·         GRASSHOPPER Imagine a bouquet of your favourite flowers! Pure elegance in a cup! Mr Chun’s deliciously buttery, high mountain oolong tea is farmed entirely organically in Ren-ai, Nantou County in Taiwan. When Tim went to see Mr Chun’s farm he was so amazed by the thousands of grasshoppers hopping about all over the tea trees that he named this oolong tea after the little critters!
·         WHITE MULBERRY Silk worms love the anti-oxidant rich leaves of the white mulberry bush - maybe it’s the irresistible sweet, earthy fruitiness! In North Eastern Thailand a small group of ladies grow beautifully aromatic White Mulberry, or Morus Alba. They nurture the bushes without the use of any chemicals and then, using a method similar to producing green tea, turn the long, waxy leaves into this delicious naturally caffeine-free tea.

What inspired you and your husband to launch Lahloo 3 years ago?
Our shared passion for food and travel has fuelled a long held ambition to put both at the heart of what we do professionally.  We felt baffled by the lack of knowledge and awareness when it comes to the nation’s favourite drink; tea. As a nation the UK drinks over 165 million cups every day but despite our relationship with tea, it seems that we were only experiencing the very tip of a fantastic epicurean iceberg!  Embracing our love and enthusiasm for tea, we started to formulate a plan for our own tea business in 2005. We embarked on a journey of discovery.

We researched everything we could about the very best tea, where it was produced, who produced it and the history behind its production.  Despite the UK’s long relationship with tea, it became clear that to experience truly great tea beyond fancy food halls such at Fortnum & Mason, you had to visit Europe. We did just that, visiting teahouses and boutiques across Europe sampling tea and speaking with tea enthusiasts. She drank very bad but expensive tea in teahouses which should have known better and truly great tea in places you wouldn’t expect to find it. Inspired by what we found, we launched Lahloo.

Lahloo is named after the 19th century tea clipper my great-great grandfather sailed on. In the 1800’s the demand by fashionable Londoners for the earliest spring crop tea created massive competition. The first ‘clipper’ that sailed into London would be met by an almost carnival atmosphere in the docks with its cargo of tea reaching the highest price. Built in 1867, the Lahloo was one of the most famous tea clippers of the 19th century. So-called because of the way they “clipped” miles, clippers were built for speed and raced to bring tea from China to London. Having grown up around dockside in London, my great-great grandfather George Hockaday was drawn into a career as a sailor and he worked on the Lahloo as she joined the clipper races.

The concept for Lahloo has been born out of the knowledge and passion gathered over a decade of research, travelling, sampling, smelling and tasting. This journey of discovery will continue for us. Our ultimate ambition is to open Lahloo tea bar & boutique offering the Lahloo experience: the very best artisan loose-leaf teas from around the world, served with the ceremony deserving of the world’s finest teas. We hope to encourage others to discover delicious artisan tea through Lahloo’s rare and unique collection of loose-leaf teas.

Considering that you visited several tea houses across Europe, can you mention a few of your favorites?

My first memory is years ago, I discovered Le Palais des Thes (http://www.palaisdesthes.com/en/) in Brussels and was amazed by the sheer quantity of different teas. For the pure feeling of travelling back in time, drinking tea and people watching, the Mariage Freres (http://www.mariagefreres.com) in Paris are a wonderful experience. One of my all time tea experience was the matcha ceremony at Toraya (http://www.toraya-group.co.jp/paris/salon/index.html). And last but not least, for the beauty of the design of the shop and the calming experience my all time favourite tea shop to hunt out if I’m in Paris is La Maison des Trois Thes (http://www.troisthes.com/). I could go on and on but apart from the tiniest tea shop of all, Kusmi Tea in Pairs (http://www.kusmitea.com/fr/), I will stop!

How long did it take you to find tea importers, Alex Fraser and Tim d’Offray?
It was through my own tea discovery and consumption really. I did lots of research to try and import directly myself but realised it would take years and years. Alex runs east teas and his teas blew me away so once I realised I wanted to work with a trusted importer I asked him if I could buy teas from him wholesale and brand them under the Lahloo name. east teas specialize in teas from Japan, Korea, Taiwan and China so I went to their co-founder, Tim, who had set up a sister company Postcard Teas to be able to also offer fabulous Indian teas too. They have amazing teas and a real passion for the people behind them I have learned so much and I’m still learning so much from them!

Beyond your White Chocolate and Matsukaze Matcha Green Tea Truffles, in what other ways do enjoy incorporate tea with your food?
Matcha blended with coarse seasalt is great on poached eggs, green tea infused vodka martinis, oolong mojitos, Earl Grey granita, amazing Lapsang chocolate truffles, oolong poached prawns, the list goes on and on…

haiku

Teaspoons & Petals - Thu, 10/29/2009 - 16:40

I often wander over to Flickr.com and search the word “tea” just to see a variety of photographic gems fill my screen. I stumbled upon this delightful photo of teacups hanging from a lit chandelier, and it inspired me to write this haiku:

flickering lights gleam
ribbon embracing handle
afternoon tea sways

photo credit: Sherry’s Rose Cottage

teaspoons & petals’ tea granita recipe featured in Food Trust

Teaspoons & Petals - Thu, 10/22/2009 - 05:20

Hooray! My tea granita was featured in the Food Trust’s newsletter (yes, this announcement is a tad delayed as the warm weather was just fading to chilled air when it was published). For those of you not familiar with the Food Trust in Philadelphia:

“The Food Trust strives to make healthy food available to all. Working with neighborhoods, schools, grocers, farmers and policymakers, we’ve developed a comprehensive approach that combines nutrition education and greater availability of affordable, healthy food.”

Lots of love for the Food Trust. Take a peek at the recipe featured in the newsletter right here.

tea style: leanne marshall

Teaspoons & Petals - Tue, 10/20/2009 - 05:04

I often dream of the day that my closet will be filled with the elegant creations of Leanne Marshall (winner of project runway 2008). When I stumbled across this dress on her blog and in her etsy shop, I was blown away by it’s delicate beauty. Even though it’s designed to be a wedding dress, I’ve imagined wearing this to a garden tea party while serving flowering teas from large glass pots. Champagne pink roses and lilacs would be strewn about the table. Maybe I’d serve lavender cookies.

While dreaming of wearing the dress, I was inspired to write this haiku:

peony tea blooms
ivory waves of cotton
catch falling petals

tea talk: NYC sous chef Melanie Franks

Teaspoons & Petals - Sun, 10/18/2009 - 04:42

While exploring the multiple ways in which I can use my tealeaves beyond the steep, I stumbled across info about environmental chemist turned sous chef with a passion for tea, Melanie Franks. After realizing her heart was in the kitchen, Melanie dove into the culinary world as a sous chef at Hook Restaurant and minibar chef at think FOOD group (Chef Jose Andres), just to name a few.

Although her passion for food spans cuisines, there is one beverage that excites Melanie’s palate. Yes, you guessed correctly, it’s tea. Beyond serving as a tea sommelier and training her staff about pairing and serving tea, she also completed all level three certification classes with the Specialty Tea Institute. Now a sous chef at NYC’s Degustation, Melanie is developing recipes that incorporate tea. How fabulous!

Lucky for me (and you), Melanie (pictured below) agreed to answer a few questions about her love of and experience with tea! Enjoy!

1. What are your top 5 favorite teas?

This is almost impossible to answer there are so many teas I love. However, there are a few favorites that I always come back to. In general, I am an Oolong girl. The complexity of flavor and aroma is unequal. From Pouchongs to Champagne, the range of oxidation levels in Oolongs creates an exceptionally pleasurable experience. I can talk endlessly about Oolongs so it is best for me to move on. Another tea I would have to mention is Silver Needles. Indeed, this tea has the power to transport me to a misty mountain day whenever I take a sip. From the leaf style to aroma, it is simply amazing. Another tea I can’t live without is Puerh, because of its’ distinct earthy qualities and deliciously mellow finish. There is almost a change in mood one experiences when they drink this tea. It is for this reason that I often drink Puerh after a long day at work. Pi Lo Chun, is a great tea that I revisit on a regular basis. Between the tea bushes of Pi Lo Chun apricot, plum and peach trees are planted which yields a beautiful aroma and clean finish. The last tea I will mention is Sencha. I love the oceanic quality of Sencha and brilliant color of the cup. It simply energizes me. In reality, I could easily mention a dozen more teas.

2. Do you have any favorite tea accessories?

When I left Hook, the staff bought me a teapot from China that I adore. It has a natural rough glaze and yellowy brown color. It is beautifully made and has sentimental value. I can’t live without my tea tray that I use for Gung Fu tea service. It is just so practical to have a beautiful vessel that serves for both serving tea and disposing of water. I also have an affinity for my everyday tea cup. It is extremely simple. It is an all white porcelain cup with a matte glaze and has bowl shape that is perfect for holding with both hands. The white color allows me to enjoy the color of the liquor.

3. Can you share a favorite moment/memory of your experience at the Specialty Tea Institute?

This is also a very difficult question to pin point one experience at of two years. However I will say this, the teachers and the people you meet taking these classes are amazing. During the session breaks I still keep in contact with my teachers and friends that I have made along the way. To have such an immense amount of knowledge of tea gathered together in one place solely to educate one another is a beautiful experience. I have to mention Phil Parda (Zhong Guo Cha), Donna Fellman (Tea Education Alliance), and Yoon Hee Kim (Tea Classics) because they truly gave me a diverse and solid foundation in tea.

4. Tell me more about your position as a tea sommelier at Hook restaurant…

This was a large undertaking. While working as a Sous Chef, I changed over the tea program from bag teas to loose leaf tea. Training my staff properly was so very important. We averaged around 250 to 300 people a night, and I learned very quickly that the wait staff did not take the care to brew some of the more temperature sensitive teas when they got busy. In this particular restaurant setting (high volume), I put together a tea list that was both provocative and service friendly. It was exciting for customers because instead of the normal pedestrian cup they were able to have the opportunity to try an array of different teas. Talking to the customers and staff about tea on a daily basis only increased my love of tea. I would do it again in a heartbeat.

5. How do you incorporate tea in your dishes?

Cooking with tea as an ingredient is really limitless. Tea can be both savory and sweet as well as earthy and aromatic. I love cooking with tea because of its flexibility. Right now we have a soup with tea as ingredient that just speaks spring is here (finally). It is a nettle soup with Lapsang Souchong yoghurt, salmon roe, cured Tasmania sea trout, and fava ban flowers. I am going to put on a desert of a chilled chamomile soup with mint and lemon sorbet this week. I can’t possible pick a favorite dish that I have done with tea, but I did really enjoy a desert I that consisted of Matcha tea cake, maldon salt, strawberry sorbet and thyme syrup. My favorite teas to cook with are the highly aromatic teas like Lapsang Souchong, jasmine green, Darjeeling as well as tisanes like chamomile and Rooibos. As for tips with cooking with tea, I find it helpful to infuse tea into oils and liquids first. Then use the tea flavored components in your recipe just as like normal. For instance, if you wanted to make a vegetable puree of some sort take the liquid you are going to use in that recipe and infuse the it with tea. The Infusion should not be stronger than normal, infuse it just as you want to drink it so that it is balanced. This method is more user friendly to start. Than as you get more comfortable with tea one can experiment with smoking, curing, and steaming with tea for example.

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